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The new car models that have been coming out recently are real things of beauty. They’re finely engineered machines that are a marvel to look at and drive. But for car enthusiasts there’s one thing about new car models that is getting a bit of a bother.

New car models now carry custom head units that are practically molded into the dashboard of the car. What this means is that for car owners, it is not easy to replace the head unit with a third party unit that they like. They’d be lucky if they can find head units that fit perfectly where the original unit is located. So this means modifying the dashboard as well to conform to the new head unit. It’s a big issue especially for avid enthusiasts who love to mod their cars.

One thing that caught my eye yesterday was the option of most car head units, particularly Pioneer that now has a USB interface allowing iPods and other MP3 players to be played with a simple hookup to the head unit.

At first I had my apprehensions since most car audio units today are equipped to read in-dash CD that stores MP3 and WMA. But now an independent storage device that can be hooked up to a car audio head unit is certainly something that I haven’t really heard of lately. What will these car audio companies think of next!

Most of the time, the lights that most car audio have play an integral part towards determining if we want them in our vehicle or not. You may be wondering, what does it have to do with sound setups?

Totally nothing. They are merely enhancements that give you a feel of the sound that your car stereo produces. It is a good way to help gauge what your sound system really needs as far as overall setup is concerned but if you are thinking of clarity as a priority, it all depends on the units you have installed in your car.

Seems crazy, but most automakers are adding the feature that allows the interfacing of today’s iPods to the car’s audio system resulting in clear and crisp digital audio output. It all began when the digital media player became so prevalent that everybody had it, the only thing needed was a way to get the car’s audio to get the audio signal from the player so they built in ports and access pods where you can easily dock your music players sending the output to your car’s audio system.
There were some aftermarket gadgets that allowed them through primitive methods on older car stereo models (the cassette tape with a plug that has a jack you plug into the earphone jack), but they are now widely available allowing even novice users to install them through the car stereo’s auxiliary input jacks. More advanced and thus expensive stereo models even had blue tooth options, allowing them to communicate with your cellphone, tuning the audio down when you take/make a call or to send audio through a bluetooth enabled digital player. The iPodization of cars will continue as these small yet powerful media players continue to grow in popularity really allowing you to take your music, where ever you go.

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There are two main types in the stereo universe namely Sound Quality and Sound Pressure Level.

Sound Quality refers to just that — a very linear response that’s not boomed and is very controlled, especially when listening to complex songs.

An SQ System generally uses a smaller woofer and requires a smaller enclosure. A sealed enclosure would typically work best for this application.

Sealed enclosures are also known as “Acoustic Suspension” enclosures. When a speaker is placed in a sealed enclosure, the pressure becomes trapped in the box and restricts the cone movement, so the air inside the enclosure acts as a spring. The smaller the enclosure, the more pressure is exerted against the cone under movement.

The real advantage is that they just consume less space, not to mention they’re easier to design and construct. Choosing a sealed enclosure will give you clean and accurate bass with good low-end extension.

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It has Exceptional Liner excursion capability and highly optimized motor and suspension designs to ensure linear performance at high power levels.

For Car Audio Speakers use Pioneer TS-E2096 because it has 3 way speakers with grills, KEVLAR brand composite cone woofer with butyl rubber edge, pure magnesium balanced dome midrange with neodymium magnet and maximum power of 360watt with nominal input power of 90 watt.

I think that’s enough because I will guarantee you with the brand and quality of that car audio parts you will have the best audio.

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PIONEER DEH-P6000UB has a maximum power output of MOSFET 50Wx4 with AM/FM radio and Plays CD-R, CD-RW, MP3, WMA, WAV, and AAC formats. It has Aux-in at rear, Ipod Direct Control, USB Input, IP Bus, RCA Pre-out, Sub-display Output, Hard-wired Remote Input, and Direct Sub Drive.

For Car Audio Amplifier use Boss Blade Extreme BLX4000 – Amplifier – 2-CHANNEL because it has 2-channel high-current MOSFET bridgeable power amplifier with remote subwoofer level control which will allow you to control the sound in your car.

For Car Audio Subwoofer use JL Audio 12W6v2 Car Audio subwoofer because it gives high output and audiophile sub-bass quality in compact enclosures.

(to be continued…)

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Having a car is a great factor especially for us guys because it adds “Pogi Points Factor”, But its not only the car that matters, it includes best body kits and paints, great engine, and of course the blasting sounds that is giving pleasure to anyone who hears it. But what is the best car audio I need to make that booming sounds? Actually there are many different variations of speakers, amplifiers, players, and sub woofer you can use for your car. And what if will suggest you are for me the best.

For Car Audio Player use PIONEER DEH-P6000UB because its a CD Tuner with IPOD Direct Control, USB-IN and 2 RCA pre-Outs. So that even where you store your music you can still play at your car any time any where.

TO be Continued…

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These tricks don’t work perfectly all the time and probably won’t win any SQ competitions but, for a daily driver, they offer better imaging without hours of testing.
The build process is pretty simple and requires very little tools. If you have access to an air compressor, a DA sander and a die-grinder, they’ll be your best friend, and allow you to save time when shaping and sanding parts. If not, you can always do it the old-fashioned way and sand by hand. If you must hand sand, don’t wait until the body filler is fully cured. Instead, let it go the stage in which the filler is just beyond rubber. If you start your rough shaping now, the filler will roll-off quickly and easily, letting you get the shape you want faster and with less fatigue.
All these idea were loudly explained by team 4kas audio.

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Before any actual mods can begin, the speakers should be imaged. This is a lengthy process that involves listening tests and aiming the speakers, but with a couple of shortcuts, the results can be pretty amazing. One of the best tricks for quick imaging is to aim the driver’s-side midrange at the passenger’s left ear and the passenger’s-side speaker, at the driver’s right ear. This will create a cross point in the center of the vehicle, equalizing the path lengths as much as possible without relocating the speakers. If you’re using components, try aiming the tweeter at the rearview mirror or a centered point 3-4′ in front of the passenger’s head. This creates a separation that allows both waves to hit the listener’s ears at nearly the same time.

To be continued…

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